I went to Indonesia to surf. Since I was a kid I used to spend my summer holidays in my grandparents’ house, in the South West of France. Their house is located close to the ocean and my family and I quickly enjoyed practicing water sports and particularly surfing.
Back in 2011 then, I was travelling in Indonesia on my motorbike, with my surfboard on the side, going from islands to islands, alone or enjoying the company of other travellers met along the way. These four months count as four of the best months I have spent so far, for so many reasons: first, I was doing what I love days after days: surfing. Second, I had not much of a constraint, except finding a place to eat and/or sleep. Finally because of the freedom feeling that I had during this period. All these three components put me in a state of happiness and an open mind which made me feel that everything is possible and even when something bad/wrong happens, there is always a reachable solution.
It is in the middle of this trip, by some coincidences, that I met Hera. Probably without being in my state of mind at that moment, I would not have paid as much attention to her as I did. And I am glad I did. My point here is, keep doing what you love, keep surfing, and something good will eventually come out of it.